The Newport Dancers' Gazette

Newport Dance Week
Volume 3 Number 2 - August 9, 1996
Editors: Michelle and Peter Lee

19th CENTURY BALL The 19th Century Ball will be held at Ochre Court on Friday night from 8:30-11:30 PM. Formal attire is requested. Music will be provided by the New River Dance Orchestra. NOTE BENE: Near the entrance of Ochre Court there will be an enticingly empty table. Do not leave valuable possessions (e.g. cameras) there, as the general public comes past that point to observe the ball. SATURDAY MORNING CLASSES Please do not forget that there will be there will be third period classes on Saturday morning at 9:30 AM. These will be continuations of the week's afternoon classes. As usual, warm ups will be at 8:50.

TAKING HIM RATHER TOO LITERALLY. Sir Biggan Burleigh (who doesn't see why he shouldn't have a turn in his own house, to very young Lady). "Miss Violet, - Round or Square?" Miss Violet (her first ball, very bashful). "well- really- Sir Burleigh - if you insist- I should say" - (hestiating) - "Decidedly Round!" Punch January 9, 1892

SPECIAL EVENT

We are delight to announce that Nancy Rexford, costume consultant, will give a lecture on "The Lost Language of Victorian Clothes" at O'Hare Academic Center on Saturday at 11 AM.

The 19th Century had well-understood standards of dress appropriate for each occasion, and a woman revealed not merely her taste, but her character, class, age and occupation through her choices in clothing. This lecture will translate this forgotten language so that Victorian clothing can begin to have for us the expressiveness that it had for the men and women who wore it.

GAMES DAY PICNIC

Please join us Saturday at Noon at Founders Hall for a picnic. There will be a buffet lunch from Noon - 1:30 PM.

Following lunch there will be Victorian games. Barring rain, we will play townball, croquet and other games of the period. If it is raining we will play indoor games. At 3 PM Tea will be served on the verandah of Founders Hall.

CANDLELIGHT DINNER

At 6 PM on Saturday there will be a Candlelight Dinner at Ochre Court. Dinner will not be served at Miley. Please dress for the occasion.

"WILD WEST" BALL

The "Wild West" ball will be held at Cecilia Hall on Saturday night at 8:30 PM. Costume or formal attire is requested. Music will be provided by The New River Dance Orchestra.

Lost, early in the Ball, the fondest and truest heart that ever beat in the bosom of a gallant Volunteer of Sussex. The lady who was seen to possess herself of it was watched by him all the night, and is implored to communicate her address, as it was the only heart he had. Address to Young Gusher (care of Mr. Punch).

Punch March 17, 1860

LETTER OF APPRECIATION

One of this week's more memorable events--the 1890's Ball--owes its spectacular surroundings in large part to the kindness of the management at the Astors' Beechwood. If you enjoyed the setting, and would like this site to remain available to us in future years, please consider sending a letter stating your appreciation to the following individual:

President
The Astors' Beechwood
580 Bellevue Avenue
Newport, RI 02840

NEWPORT DANCE WEEK ON THE INTERNET

Some of or readers have already communicated with Hannah (cvdnewport@aol.com) about Newport via e-mail, but you might want to check out the Newport Vintage Dance Week Web page. Presently it consists of this year's brochure with color pictures. Please check later this month for a revised page with scenes from this year's dance week and complete editions of the Gazette! The URL is: http://VintageDancers.org/Newport/ The web page includes John Burrows' famous scone recipe, pictures from past dance weeks, a reprint of an article on 1890's dance etiquette, and much more!

OSCAR WILDE'S CRITIQUE ON WESTERN CLOTHING,
AND CLOTHING IN THE WEST

Oscar Wilde presented his lecture "The Practical Application of the Principles of the Aesthetic Theory to Exterior and Interior House Decoration, With Observations upon Dress and Personal Ornaments", at the Newport Casino on June 15, 1882. Our correspondent has transcribed a portion of his remarks as follows:

"Perhaps one of the most difficult things for us to do is to choose a notable and joyous dress for men. There would be more joy in life if we were to accustom ourselves to use all the beautiful colours we can in fashioning our own clothes. The dress of the future, I think, will use drapery to a great extent and will abound with joyous colour. At present we have lost all nobility of dress and, in doing so, have almost annihilated the modern sculptor. And, in looking around at the figures which adorn our parks, one could almost wish that we had completely killed the noble art. To see the frock-coat of the drawing-room done in bronze, or the double waistcoat perpetuated in marble, adds a new horror to death. But indeed, in looking through the history of costume, seeking an answer to the questions we have propounded, there is little that is either beautiful or appropriate. One of the earliest forms is the Greek drapery which is exquisite for young girls. And then, I think we may be pardoned a little enthusiasm over the dress of the time of Charles I., so beautiful indeed, that in spite of its invention being with the Cavaliers it was copied by the Puritans. And the dress for the children of that time must not be passed over. It was a very golden age of the little ones. I do not think that they have ever looked so lovely as they do in the pictures of that time. The dress of the last century in England is also peculiarly gracious and graceful. There is nothing bizarre or strange about it, but it is full of harmony and beauty. In these days, when we have suffered dreadfully from the incursions of the modern milliner, we hear ladies boast that they do not wear a dress more than once. In the old days, when the dresses were decorated with beautiful designs and worked with exquisite embroidery, ladies rather took pride in bringing out the garment and wearing it many times and handing it down to their daughters - a process that would, I think, be quite appreciated by a modern husband when called upon to settle his wife's bills.

"And how shall men dress? Men say that they do not particularly care how they dress and that it is little matter. I am bound to reply that I do not think that you do. In all my journeys through the country, the only well-dressed men that I saw - and in saying this I earnestly deprecate the polished indignation of your Fifth Avenue dandies - were the Western miners. Their wide-brimmed hats, which shaded their faces from the sun and protected them from the rain, and the cloak, which is by far the most beautiful piece of drapery ever invented, may well be dwelt on with admiration. Their high boots, too, were sensible and practical. They wore only what was comfortable, and therefore beautiful. As I looked at them I could not help thinking with regret of the time when these picturesque miners would have made their fortunes and would go East to assume again all the abominations of modern fashionable attire. Indeed, so concerned was I that I made some of them promise that when they again appeared in the more crowded scenes of Eastern civilization they would still continue to wear their lovely costume. But I do not believe they will."

ASK MRS. ASTORBILT

Dear Mrs. Astorbilt,
At a recent evening dance that I attended at the home of a lovely host and hostess, I was asked to dance by a gentleman with whom I have danced at a previous ball. Unfortunately, that dance was a difficult experience because my partner seemed unable to guide me closely enough so that I could avoid stepping on his boots. I fear I made myself and him appear quite foolish. I should like to spare us both the agony in future. How should I reply to him?
Footloose but not Fancy Free

Dear Miss Free,
According to some nineteenth century etiquette books, you should reserve your quadrilles for just such gentlemen. Mrs. Astorbilt wonders whether this gentleman is a relatively new dancer, in which case a few crushed toes and awkward moments are a small price to pay to make him feel wanted and to give him practice on the dance floor. If, however, he is an established dancer and has not responded to your grimaces and exclamations by changing his dance style, you may suggest that dancing the quadrille with him would make you happy, or you may plead fear of fatigue (which would be all too true). Bear in mind that everyone improves over time, and do not consign him to your "quadrille list" forever. A gentleman will feel insulted (and understandably so) if you perpetually deny him the chance to attempt a round dance with you.
Mrs. Astorbilt

Dear Mrs. Astorbilt,
What sort of gloves should I wear to the formal dinner? I have a fair selection, but I want to pick the most correct pair.
Dining in Style

Dear Miss Style,
There is no specified time period for the formal dinner. Everyone dresses nicely, in whatever style they prefer, from 1820's to 1990's. If gloves are appropriate for your outfit, you should wear them, matching them in style and formality to your outfit (e.g. short for mid- nineteenth century, long for late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries). As a general rule, you should remove them before eating. According to one etiquette book, "nothing is more preposterous than to eat in gloves." (Willis, 1860, p. 22.) There were, however, a few whims of fashion which allowed ladies to wear gloves while eating. One was a brief fad in the 1880's for fingerless mitts worn at dinner (although mitts are never formal enough to be worn to a ball). Another was long gloves from the 1890's and turn of the century where the bare hand could be stuck out the opening at the wrist and the glove turned back and tucked out of the way. Unless you are affecting one of these styles, you should plan on removing your gloves at table. Gentlemen have no choice in this matter. If they are wearing formal dress suits they must wear white or light colored gloves (when arriving and departing), and must remove them when sitting down to table. Gloves are optional for gentlemen who wear less formal suits, but if they are worn, they should be removed before eating dinner.
Mrs. Astorbilt

If the Officer with sandy moustaches who upset the lobster salad over a lady about two o'clock will call at Swan and Edgar's, and behaves like an officer and a gentleman, she will hear something to her advantage. When you have bought the dress, show this advertisement to the young man, and he will do the rest. You need not trouble yourself further.

To Shiny braids... (diamond cross, pink ribbons) - Have lost my purse, and in it your address, and my heart breaking rapid. Please send a line, only one, to Adolphus. Post Office, Leeds. We are most respectable, and desirous to marry. .
. . Please write A. M.

Punch March 17, 1860